Left: Outstanding in the Field founder Jim Denevan. Right: My beets from summer 2009

O.k., so Jim Denevan isn’t really my bf. In fact, we have never even met….. but if he could just get a look at these beautiful beets I grew in my backyard garden last summer, I know that he would love me back.

Artist, surfer and creator of the innovative ‘Outstanding in the Field’ touring dinner company, Denevan’s operation tours North America for 6 months each year, timing its events with the bounty of each region’s harvests. Starting in California and traveling as far North as Alaska, all distances are covered in a red 1963 flexi bus. These festive, unique dinner parties are hosted outdoors, at the very farms that have grown the ingredients for that same evening’s menu. These events offer diners (100 per seating) an unforgettable culinary experience that connects them directly to their food source and also to the farmers and food artisans responsible for making such top quality abundance possible.

Former chef of Santa Cruz’s Gabriella Café, Denevan had released a companion cookbook of the same name. It is a drooling, inspiring read that makes one want to run outside, raid a vegetable garden and cook something delicious. This Marinated Roasted Beets Recipe is a simple, gorgeous looking dish. Denevan suggests serving it in a mixed green salad, mixed with crisp spring vegetables or paired with pickled trout.

Marinated Roasted Beets

1 pound red or gold beets, tops removed
1 tbsp vegetable oil
kosher salt
3 sprigs thyme or 1 sprig rosemary
1 small shallot, minced
3 tbsp red wine vinegar
1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil
freshly ground black pepper

Heat oven to 375*. Scrub the beets and pat them dry. Place them in a small baking dish, toss them with the vegetable oil and season with salt. Add the thyme sprigs to the pan along with about 1/3 cup water. Cover the pan tightly with aluminum foil. Roast in the oven until the beets can be easily pierced with a knife, about 45 minutes for medium beets. Remove the foil and allow the beets to sit at room temperature just until cool enough to handle.

To make the marinade, in a small bowl combine the shallot and vinegar and set aside to macerate for 10 minutes. Add a pinch of salt and slowly whisk in the olive oil until well combined.

Peel the beets. Cut the beets into 1/8” rounds or ¼: wedges and place them in a medium bowl. Pour the marinade over the beets and stir gently with a wooden spoon to thoroughly coat the beets with the marinade. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Let stand at room temperature for 30 minutes before serving.

I have no idea what was going on with my inner carnivore last weekend, but I found myself consuming alarming amounts of lamb, sausage and meatloaf in a very short period of time. With my incisors now retracted, I have come to my senses. Now it is a mostly vegetarian diet that I seek.

This recipe had been sitting in my office for weeks, patiently waiting to be attempted. It came from a January Vancouver Sun article in which Mia Stainsby wrote about the local underground restaurant scene. One of the haunts that she covered is a vegan themed affair, situated in a private house ’somewhere in East Van’. The Secret Supper takes bookings on Sunday nights, divided into an early and later seating. And the menu prices are reasonable- just $20 for a 3 course meal.

This lentil dip is dead easy to make. If you can fry an onion and operate a food processor and a can opener, then you definitely have what it takes to make what I feel is one of the best dips ever. With the ‘cheesy’ flavour provided by the nutritional yeast and the sweet zing from the balsamic vinegar…. it is now my official favourite meat-eater-redeeming recipe. I suggest trying it warm, as the flavours become even more pronounced.

Caramelized Onion Lentil Dip
(Makes about 2 ½ cups)

1 onion, medium dice
1 T extra virgin olive oil
½ t salt
½ t chili powder
½ t cumin powder
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 t balsamic vinegar

Bring a frying pan to medium heat. Add olive oil and wait one minute. Add onions + salt and sauté, stirring occasionally until they are translucent and lightly browned. Add the garlic, cumin and chili powder. Fry for one minute. Add the vinegar and cook for 2 more minutes. Remove pan from the heat.

In a food processor add:

2 ½ c (1 can) cooked lentils, drained and rinsed
2 T tahini
1 T nutritional yeast
1 ½ t balsamic vinegar
juice of ½ lemon
¼ t fresh ground pepper
caramelized onions (above recipe)

Blend in food processor for 1 minute. Stop machine to scrap down the inside with a rubber spatula. Continue to blend for 2 more minutes, until dip is smooth and creamy. Serve with your favourite bread or crackers.

Top: Lamb Burger (with Mint + Feta Yogurt Sauce and Caramelized Onions)

Above:  Mother and Baby Girl @ FarmgirlFare.com

I’ve been making these lamb burgers for a few years now. Note that they are doubly delicious if you have access to a grill or bbq. Sadly, our Weber is a little under the weather at the moment, which forced me to fry last night’s patties in a pan. Still, they scored high on the yum factor, elevated further by the extra flavours of fresh mint, parsley, green onion, garlic and soy sauce mixed in with the meat. But it is the final fixin’s of caramelized onions and a mint and feta yogurt sauce that really put these burgers over the top. When they are fully assembled on a lightly toasted bun, they are tall, tasty and drippy….. not for the faint of heart and definitely not for a first date.

Lamb Burgers with Mint + Feta Yogurt Sauce and Caramelized Onions

Lamb Patties:

1 lb ground lamb
½ c fresh mint, roughly chopped
1/3 c fresh parsley, roughly chopped
3 green onions, thinly sliced
½ c bread crumbs
1 garlic clove, minced
1 T tamari
salt + pepper

Using clean hands, mix all until well combined. Shape into 4 patties. Cover and keep in the fridge until cooking time, or start to cook them right away.

Mint + Feta Yogurt Sauce:

1 c plain yogurt
½ c crumbled goat feta
1/3 c fresh mint, roughly chopped
1 green onion, thinly sliced
fresh ground black pepper
Caramelized Onions:
1 large yellow onion, cut in half and thinly sliced
1 T extra virgin olive oil
¼ t salt

Bring a frying pan to medium heat. Add oil and wait one minute. Add the onions and sprinkle with salt. Saute the onions, stirring often, until they are really soft and golden brown. Remove from pan and onto a small plate.

Assembly:

You will need 4 fresh hamburger buns. Cut them in half and place them on a cookie sheet. Preheat oven to 325*. Start to fry, grill or bbq the lamb patties, cooking to desired doneness. Meanwhile, when the oven is up to temperature, place the buns on the centre rack, leaving in until just lightly toasted. Place each bun on a dinner plate, adding one patty to each. Next top with sliced tomato, a good scoop of the Mint + Feta Yogurt Sauce, and some of the caramelized onion. Note that arugula leaves are also a nice garnish to add to this.

Elk!

Panfried Oysters to start…. plucked from a secret beach locale somewhere in Courtenay, B.C. (Served with homemade Tartar Sauce + fresh squeezed lime juice and homemade apple cider for sipping)

Brent’s Elk Stroganoff.

It was back in June of 2008 (‘A Garden Good Enough to Eat’) that I first had the pleasure of meeting Moira and Brent. This highly inspiring d.i.y. couple continues to do everything from growing heaps of their own food to hunting for and butchering their own meat and packaging unique blends of tea.

Three weeks ago, Moira and Brent came to Vancouver for a visit with my good pal, Heather (Heather is Moira’s sister). When Heather phoned to invite me for dinner, it was explained that Brent would be preparing a very special meal….. fresh oysters which they had gathered themselves followed by Elk Stroganoff. And, yes, Brent had killed the elk himself. And, no, it was not with a hunting rifle but, rather, with a cross bow (the first and only arrow killed the animal). On B.C.’s Vancouver Island, elk hunting season had opened on Sept. 10 2009 and closed on Dec 15. It was not until December 14 during a heavy snow, a mere day before the end of the season, that he finally killed a 550 pound cow elk, after spending about 26 of the previous 30 days ‘on the hunt’.

When killing an animal for food, a successful hunt is only the beginning of the process. In the case of this particular elk, the first step was to gut the animal on site. The animal was then hung outside to age for 14 days. This vital step allows enzymatic breakdown of protein to occur, resulting in meat that is far more tender than when it was freshly killed. Finally, it was time to butcher the elk. Brent chose to do this himself (he also gave half of the meat away his friend, a fellow hunter who had not been quite so lucky during the hunting season). Nothing went to waste. Lastly, the trim was sent to a local butcher who used it to make them gluten free elk sausage, as he had agreed to using the rice flour bread crumbs they provided. 

Brent witnesses the enzymatic breakdown of protein.

As you can imagine, our feast that evening was not only delicious, but also extremely unique. It was such a treat to be included in their fine company, while also being fed their beautiful food. When I asked Brent if he would be willing to share his recipe, here is what he had to share…..

Brent’s Elk Stroganoff:
(The night of our elk feast, the stroganoff was served with rice, roasted butternut squash and a fresh spinach salad and an Apple and Saskatoon Berry Crumble for dessert. Yum! Roar!)

Brown meat (about 4 ½ lbs hind roast) separately. Remove from pot. Add onions and caramelize. In clay pot add meat, onions, 5 kinds of peppercorns, red wine, black currant port, elk demi glaze (made from elk stock, in turn made from elk bones), porcini mushrooms, marjoram, oregano, juniper berries, salt and pepper. Cook in the oven in a heavy cast iron enamel pot (with lid on) @ 350* for about  3-4 hours, adding cream near the end. If stroganoff becomes too dry, add extra water to achieve desired consistency. At serving time, taste and adjust seasoning.

‘All love is sweet, given or returned.’ -Percy Bysshe Shelley

Ah, Valentine’s Day! With only 4 days left until the big day, there isn’t much time left to get something special for your near and dear. Boat loads of chocolate, greeting cards, fresh cut flowers, champagne and lingerie are currently being purchased in dizzying numbers. Restaurant reservations for the 14th shall also be busting at the seams. Referred to by some as “Extortion Day”, this is one more consumer driven calendar date that can quickly turn into a costly affair. I say gift the people that you appreciate having in your life with what you want when you want. And, should you feel so inclined….. why not try making them something!?

Today’s Lime Sugar Cookies come from the Rebar Modern Food Cookbook. I did add my own little finishing detail with the icing sugar heart….. thought it was a sweet and simple little V Day touch. I took these cookies to Duthie Books today for 2 reasons….. reason number one is because this local business is a part of my community. I really like owner Cathy Duthie, as well as the shop’s fabulous staff. Over the years, I have dropped by countless times to shoot the breeze, buy the odd book or mag. and even to share recipes. I have been making Cathy’s One Pot Wonder Baked Bread ever since she first gave me the recipe back in March of last year. Reason number two is because they have just closed their doors for good. With a monthly store rent of $16,000 plus monster competition from the likes of Chapters, this local, family run book seller has finally decided to call it a day. I am very sad to see them go and will miss this wonderful store and, even more, all its friendly faces.

Lime Sugar Cookies
(Makes about 14 cookies)

1 c granulated sugar
¼ c unsalted butter, softened
1 T vegetable oil
zest of 1 lime
1 large egg
2 T fresh lime juice
1 ¾ c unbleached flour
¼ c pumpkin seeds, toasted and roughly chopped
½ t baking soda
½ t salt

1- Preheat oven to 350*. Cream the sugar, oil, butter and lime zest until light and fluffy. Add egg and lime juice, and beat together to incorporate.

2- Sift into a separate bowl the flour, salt and baking soda. Stir well, to avoid lumps of baking soda. Add the dry mix to the wet mix and stir together well. Mix in the pumpkin seeds.

3- Using a 2 oz ice cream scoop, or forming 2 T balls, drop the batter onto a cookie sheet, leaving space in between to allow the cookies to spread during baking. Flatten each slightly with your finger tips. Bake for 8-10 minutes. Cool on a wire rack. To create hearts: cut a template from paper in whatever shape you like. Place template over cookie and sprinkle icing sugar through a small sieve, just enough to make a visible shape on the top of the cookie.

One of my new hand made Valentine’s Day cards, available for sale at the Home Grow-In Grocer.

I’ve been toiling away in my studio for several days now, getting creative with my fabric collection, patterned paper, sewing machine and imagination. A few weeks back, when Home Grow-In Grocer owner Deb Reynold’s asked me to do a custom, Valentine’s themed collection for her shop, I jumped at the chance to get down and pretty. In the end, the collection became a combination of aprons, market bags and cards. They now sit happily in her shop, waiting to be snapped up as a gift for someone’s beloved. And these items are in good company, as they share retail real estate with other locally made gift goodies, such as jewelry, chocolates, soap and countless other (mostly) edible treats.

Chocolates by Wendy Boys.

More cards by moi.

Aprons by moi.

On Saturday night, February 13 from 7-11 pm, come visit the Home Grow In Grocer for a special Valentine’s themed evening. During the evening’s ‘Tea Party Art Sale’, many of the shop’s local suppliers and designers will be on hand to visit with and also to answer questions about their various works….. Karen Wells from Soap Craft, Wendy Boys Chocolates, Margie Gray from Your Sax Shop (compact shopping bags) , Katherine Soucie of Sans Soucie (clothing and textile designer) , Diane Farnsworth of Crow Booty (jewelry) and me, along with my earlier mentioned Valentine’s themed aprons, market bags and cards. Also for sale will be handmade chocolates from JB’s Candy Shoppe in Abbotsford, B.C. Shop owner Deb Reynolds will be donating 25% of the evening’s net sales to The Heart and Stroke Foundation. Should you find yourself purchasing $100 or more, you will also be gifted with a free 2010 calendar from Farm Folk / City Folk. Or just wear your favourite hat and look forward to 10% off.

Also worth noting….. starting this Valentines day, The Home Grow-In will return to its previous hours of operation (7 days a week, from 7 am – 9 pm). February 14 also marks the return of ice cream cones which will be served with Abbotsford based Birchwood Dairy ice cream!

Above: Parsnip Chowder. Below: Raw parsnips from A Tasty Week

I must admit that I have not spent much time getting to know the humble parsnip. This is entirely my loss, as a cooked parsnip packs a unique, sweet yet funky flavour, a flavour like none other. This tasty root vegetable grows well in our climate. B.C. parsnips are planted in the early Spring and require a long, cool growing season and are available from mid-August all the way through to April of the following year. In case you were wondering, they a good source of carbohydrate, vitamin C, minerals such as potassium and calcium, and fibre. In fact, as far as food value goes, parsnips exceed any other vegetable except potatoes.

Today’s ‘Parsnip Chowder’ is an adaptation my mom concocted from a recipe she found on page 21 of this month’s issue of EAT Magazine. Though I have not tasted the original version, which also calls for pieces of candied salmon and keeping the potato diced….. I strongly suspect that June’s pared down version is superior, because it celebrates the parsnip in all its glory as opposed to forcing it to compete with the dominant flavour of salmon. She also pureed the potato along with the other ingredients, resulting in a velvety, creamy, parsnip-py soup.

Parsnip Chowder (adapted from EAT Magazine)
Makes 8 cups

1 large knob butter
3 fresh thyme sprigs (I used dried, from jar)
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 onion, chopped
4 large parsnips, peeled and chopped
1 L. chicken or vegetable stock
2 c. whole milk or water (I used 1% milk)
1 potato, peeled and diced

Melt butter in a very large saucepan over medium heat. Add thyme sprigs, onion and garlic. Stir often until softened, 6 to 8 minutes. Add parsnips and stir to coat, then pour in broth and milk. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat; cover and simmer until parsnips are very tender, 10 to 15 minutes. Discard thyme sprigs and then add potato. Simmer, stirring often, until potato is tender, 10-12 minutes. Then puree soup using a regular or hand held blender. Strain through a fine mesh sieve (that will give the soup a velvety texture) and then return to saucepan, reheating if necessary. Ladle into bowls or mugs.

Onions in the Earth, just outside my office window.

It wasn’t until I began attempts to rustle up today’s lunch that I realized just how low the larder was. Not even an onion to be found…… or was there? Suddenly recalling the greens poking out of the soil, the ones that had caught my eye while gazing out my office window just a day before- I thought to myself, ‘Could they still actually be edible?’. A closer investigation revealed that with a good scrubbing and a few extra layers of peeling, they would indeed be good enough to eat.

Those who know me well are aware of my great love for caramelized onions. I have been known to eat them with just about anything. They serve as a great start to any cooked dish, as well as a divine condiment on burgers, sandwiches, tacos….. In the end, lunch ended up being a modest fare. The couscous salad started with the garden-supplied onions and ended with the addition of a fried egg. Not bad, considering it really is time to go grocery shopping.

Couscous Salad with a Fried Egg
(Serves 2 as a main, or 4 as a side)

2 T olive oil
1/2 c onion, small dice
1 c dried cous cous
1 c boiling water

1/3 c currants, soaked for 20 minutes in boiled water and then drained
1 c sliced cucumber
1/3 c  cashews, toasted and roughly chopped
2/3 c parsley, chopped
2/3 c green peas, thawed

juice and zest of ½ lime
½ c olive oil
salt + pepper to taste
2-4 eggs, fried (1 per person)

In a medium pot over low-medium heat, sauté yellow onion in 2 T olive oil until onions are golden brown and translucent (about 5-10 minutes). Add cous cous and stir well. Turn off heat. Pour in boiling water. Cover and let stand for minutes. Add frozen peas and let stand for 1 more minute. Fluff cous cous with a fork and transfer to a large bowl.

Add all remaining ingredients and mix well. Taste and adjust salt, if needed. While frying the eggs, serve the salad on individual plates. When the eggs are cooked, gently place them on top of each salad serving.

Salad with Shredded Pork, Rice Noodles and Spring rolls at Au Petit Cafe.

What with the short (and grey) days, the perpetual deluge of rain and the recently arrived Visa bills, it would seem that the January blahs have truly set in. And, from where I’m sitting, there is no better way to ward them off then to dip one’s toe into the fresh, exotic flavours of far away lands. In Vancouver we are blessed with a plethora of ethnic culinary opportunities. Whether one is looking to dine out, shop for unique ingredients or simply peruse a seemingly endless selection of cookbooks ….. this city offers an abundance of tasty options.

My new favourite restaurant of the day is a mere 10 minute drive from my home. Au Petit Café serves up some of the finest Vietnamese food in town, consistently fresh, colourful, delicious and downright transporting. Each dish delivers a complex and delightful combination of bright flavours and textures. I suspect it will be years before I manage to work through their full menu, if ever.

Vietnamese Sandwich with Chicken and all the Fixin’s at Au Petit Cafe.

If one prefers to cook at home, attempting to create dishes from anywhere in the world is easier than ever. Cookbooks from the library, countless websites, t.v cooking shows and even cooking classes for the truly ambitious all help any home cook to achieve excellent results.

Today’s recipe is a simple Vietnamese Salad. Quick to prepare and refreshing to eat, it serves well as a side or would also make a fine meal, with the addition of grilled chicken, hard boiled eggs or shredded pork.

Vietnamese Salad (my own effort)
(Serves 4)

1/2 c peanuts, lightly toasted and roughly chopped
1 small head Chinese leaf lettuce (about 4-5 cups), thinly sliced
4 medium carrots, grated or juliened on a mandoline slicer
1 c cucumber, halved lengthwise and thinly sliced
4 green onions, thinly sliced
4 T fresh basil, roughly chopped
1 c fresh cilantro
1/2 c radishes, thinly sliced

Dressing:

2 red chillies, deseeded and finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, minced
2 T brown sugar
1 T rice vinegar
juice of 2 limes
1 T fish sauce
3 T vegetable oil

Put the dressing ingredients in a small bowl and whisk well. Set aside. For the salad, add all of the vegetables to a large bowl, except for the cilantro. Drizzle with the dressing and toss. Serve in individual salad bowls. Scatter each serving with the roughly torn cilantro and peanuts.

If ever pressed to choose just one, Saveur would win hands down as my favourite food magazine. Its eclectic content is consistently down home accessible, while at the same time worldly and inspiring. One of my favourite Christmas gifts ever was an annual subscription given to me by my good pal, Darrell. That was two years ago, and each year since he has generously renewed it. Every month I look forward to the latest, shiny issue of Saveur at my front door. This month’s issue (#126) showcases the top 100 entries from its own readers….. everything from recipes, ingredients and kitchen gadgets to favourite chefs and restaurants all co-mingle to create a delightfully delicious spread. At this post-consumer-binge time of year, when most magazine content tends to be at its skinniest, this January issue is a rich and abundant compilation, perhaps even their best issue yet.

For yesterday’s lunch I tried out Donna Long’s recipe for Roasted Radishes (pages 54 + 86). Her submission included a short background to the recipe, which she first made this past May, while attending cooking classes at Viking Cooking School in Greenwood, Mississippi with her (then cooking-reluctant) husband. She attributes this recipe to her husband’s new found passion for the kitchen, as their prepared dish was such a success and, in turn, such a revelation for him. Though I would certainly not say it is my favourite roasted vegetable dish on planet earth, it is a tasty one. The finished product will surprise you, as these radishes are completely transformed in colour, flavour and texture from their original crunchy pinky-red selves. If I were to make them again, I think that I would roast them in combination with other vegetables, such as cauliflower, potatoes and/or yams.

Roasted Radishes
(Serves 2-4)

3 bunches assorted radishes (About 1 1/2 lbs)
3 T extra virgin olive oil
6 sprigs of fresh thyme
kosher salt + freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Preheat the oven to 425*. Trim radish greens. Wash radishes, pat dry and transfer to a large bowl with oil and thyme. Toss to combine. Season with salt and pepper. Put radishes into a shallow baking dish and cook, turning occasionally, unti golden brown and a small knife slides easily into radishes, 40-50 minutes.