Cup O’ Kava at Kanaka Kava Bar..

I love finding these little jewels. I had stumbled upon the Kanaka Kava Bar not a minute too soon, just when I was about to accept the fact that Hawaii’s big island was completely void of any funk at all. Tucked away in the back of the Coconut Grove plaza, this sweet little spot serves as a unique and friendly oasis to both tourists and locals.

So exactly what is kava? Also known as Hawaiian ‘Awa‘, the bar’s website describes it as a “natural antidepressant and relaxant“, though I actually found it to be a stimulant and also a mild anesthetic (my face and extremities felt rather numb after ingesting it). Made from the pulverized root of the (fresh) kava plant, the resulting mash is strained through a cloth and then mixed with fresh water. After the kava has been poured into a large hand carved wooden bowl, it is continually stirred, mixed and splashed (to keep it from separating and also to keep it fresh) and then served by ladle into a coconut shell cup. It is supposed to be consumed quickly (“slammed”) before the root has had a chance to separate and settle in the bottom of the cup. The liquid looks like muddy water taken from a torrid river and tastes like it too. But it is more than just a beverage. Taking kava also has a spiritual and social significance. “Made from the root of a species of pepper plant known as Awa (Piper methysticum, which is “intoxicating pepper”), Awa has been used by people indigenous to the South Pacific for over 3,000 years. The Kava beverage is a central part of Polynesian Society, and has been used for centuries as a ceremonial, medicinal and also recreational drink.”

The local patrons I sat amongst during my kava experience were super friendly and seemed to assume personal responsibility in seeing that each visitor felt welcome (as did the staff). The food menu looked appealing…..a simple but inspired looking Hawaiian selection of items such as Poke (fish), Kalua Pork, Taro (steamed in coconut milk) and Haupia (sweet potato pie) and I regret that I did not manage to fit in a return visit and order a meal. As I was getting ready to leave, bar regular ‘Dave’ was preparing to head for the beach and feed the moray eels. He was going to serve them fish trim from the restaurant kitchen and asked me if I would like to come along. Absolutely! As the beach was right across the street, we were at the water’s edge in mere seconds. Dave scattered the tuna trim buffet on the rocky shoreline. Eels have an impressive sense of smell and, in no time, were slithering up the rocks and snatching their supper. They ranged in length from 1-2 metres, some of them grey, some white and even one red ‘viper’ which measured about 5″-6” in diameter. They were very hungry and very creepy. (See video below)

Moray eels just the way I like ‘em….. at a safe distance.

Eeeeeeeeels!

Homemade porridge, Hawaiian-style.

Without getting into too much of a ranty pants, the restaurant experience on Hawaii’s big island blows harder than the local trade winds. Meals are not only consistently poor, they are really pricey. I am known to be a woman who enjoys her food (especially when on vacation). I can’t remember the last time that I returned home from a holiday critical of my culinary experiences in a foreign land.

Anyhoo….. on the upside, I was very fortunate to be staying with my family in a seaside condo that included a full working kitchen. We gave up on restaurant dining at the end of day 3, instead opting to do for ourselves. Though almost all grocery items are imported from the mainland (including produce plus a good deal of the fish and seafood), we were still able to prepare tasty meals….. even supplementing our larder with fresh ingredients from local farmers markets. But buyer beware- there are vendors at some of these markets selling products shipped in from off-island. You have to ask where their products came from if buying local is important to you.

The Holualoa Farmers Market on Saturdays (9:00 am – noon) seemed the most authentic that we saw. It was here that I picked up a jar of the most amazing raw honey I have ever had. Made from Christmas berries, its sweet, thick, creamy amber goodness was heavenly served on pretty much anything. The woman who sold it to me keeps the bees herself, reusing the same queen from batch to batch- unlike the usual practice, which is to start with a fresh queen each time. The finished product proved especially sensational drizzled over Hawaiin-style porridge. The local pink grape fruit I purchased from the citrus vendor could not have been any fresher, juicier or prettier.

A vibrant citrus selection at the Holualoa Farmers Market.

Porridge- Hawaiian-Style

Make your favourite porridge as you normally would, also adding ½ tsp of cinnamon and ½ cup of raisins. When porridge is ready, spoon into bowls. Top with:

-a drizzle of good honey
-fresh pineapple pieces
-fresh banana slices
-toasted coconut
-toasted macadamia nuts

Add milk or yogurt, as you like. Serve and enjoy, preferably al fresco….. while looking at the ocean and wearing no shoes.

If I lived on higher terrain, it would actually be sunny…. but closer to sea level the fog has been stubbornly socked in for days now. It’s starting to feel like living on the ‘Blade Runner’ film set. So I’m outta here….. Hawaii. The big island. Sea, surf, sun, swim. Sip and nosh. See you in a week.