
“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” -Benjamin Franklin
Last week I was invited to pay a visit to Vancouver brewer David Varga, as he went about his workday, happily productive in his natural habitat. Taylor’s Crossing is the brewery where he practices his craft for Red Truck Beer Company. It is always such a pleasure to speak with those who are passionate about what they do, and Varga is just such a person. Upon meeting him, his enthusiasm for creating, producing and drinking quality beer was immediately evident. Dave knows beer well, and he loves to share his knowledge. After visiting with him for just over an hour, I now know a good deal more about the process, and even some of the finer details of how a craft beer is made.
Varga was initially turned onto the idea of making beer while studying microbiology at UBC. It was his beer loving ‘Fermentation Technology’ professor who first inspired him when, after teaching a class on the subject of brewing, he extended an invitation to any of his students who might be interested in joining him and his buddy in their weekend warrior home brewing project. Dave took him up on his offer, which later led him to independent home brew explorations of his own via kits and ‘you-brew’ stores.
There are no brewing schools in Canada, though one is slated to open this September at Niagara College in St. Catherines, Ontario. This two year ‘Brew Master Program’ has already filled its 24 available spaces, plus it has an ever growing waiting list. So how does one learn to make good beer when suds schools are not an option? On the job training, of course! Varga’s first two years in the biz were spent at Whistler Brewing Company, an experience he feels provided an excellent learning opportunity. From there he moved on to do a stint at ‘Tree Brewery’ in Kelowna, then two more years at Brewsters in Calgary and finally to Taylor’s Crossing, where today he spins his sudsy craft for both that location and the independent Red Truck Beer Company.
Red Truck currently produces a lager and an ale. Seasonal brews are done in smaller runs, the current offering being a Czech Style Pilsner which is available for quaffing at the Alibi Room as of May 10 (for part of Craft Beer Week). Also on the way very soon will be a limited run Blueberry Beer for Summer 2010.
How to make beer:
1-Malted barley (seeds that have been allowed to sprout half way, halted suddenly by forced heat, a process that creates enzymes within the grains) is fed from the outdoor silo to the indoor mill where it is crushed into a flour.
2-The flour is then placed into a mash tun (cooking vessel) along with warm water -about 1 part barley to every 3 parts warm water. The mixture is then stirred to a porridge-like consistency. This process activates the enzymes which, in turn, begin to break down the starches and proteins. Next, the starch converts to sugar which dissolves into the water.

3- Additional (mostly roasted) malted barley grains are added to create unique flavour, colour and mouth feel.
4- The mash is separated from the sugar water. A local farmer comes to the brewery regularly to pick the spent grain to feed to his animals. Because his livestock have 4 stomachs, they are able to break down the cellulose in the husks and draw nutritional benefit from the mash- something human stomachs are unable to do.
5-The sugar water is removed from the mash tun and transferred a kettle, where it is boiled to sterilize. Hops are then added to provide flavours and bitterness. This bitterness serves to counter the sweetness.
6-Next, the liquid is moved to the fermenter, where yeast is added. Here the yeast grows and divides, feeding off of the sugars and leaving behind sugars it is unable to ferment. A step that takes between one and two weeks, this is when the alcohol, aromas and carbon dioxide are created.

7-From there, the beer is moved to the cold room, where up to 23 cellar tanks wait to be filled. As the sediment begins to fall, it creates a sort of ‘net’ which collects more sediment as it continues to fall to the bottom of the tank. Here carbonation will be added the beer will be aged for a final 1-2 weeks.

8- Then the precious elixir is poured into kegs.

9- Finally, the kegs are loaded into the Red Truck for delivery!

Running May 10-16, 2010, Vancouver Craft Beer Week is now in mid swing…..”a celebration taking place throughout metropolitan Vancouver …..aims to inspire a broader interest in all aspects of beer in order to cultivate a flourishing craft beer culture in the region.” The festival showcases 27 breweries via beer tastings, cooking classes and dinners featuring select brewers. Click here to check out some of the fantastic, beer-centric events currently happening around town. The Red Truck boys were kind enough (and they are very kind) to invite me to partake in last night’s lip smacking five course beer and food pairing menu at Au Petit Chavignol (Heaven on earth for cheese lovers! Located at 843 East Hastings). Events such as these are a chance for craft beer makers to elevate good beer into the mainstream of the general public, to show people how to enjoy pairing good food with well chosen beer, just as so many already do with wine. Our menu went as follows:
Cheese Tasting (8 Selections)
Red Truck Lager
Cheddar and Beer Soup (cooked with Red Truck Limited Release Stout)
Red Truck Limited Release IPA
Charcuterie Plate
Red Truck Limited Release Pilsner
Beer Braised Beef Brisket (cooked with Red Truck Ale)
Red Truck Ale
Warm Chocolate Cookies
Red Truck Limited Release Stout

Red Truck Limited Release Stout + Warm Chocolate Cookies- Yum!